Tuesday, 1 November 2011

Monday 31 October: Day 1 - From A to D with & without a passport


Leave Aylsham at 7.20 in the Rustmobile (memo: don't be rude about it in future) and reach  Norwich station with ample time to spare. No newspapers available, so started Jeff in Venice, Death in Varanasi, by Geoff Dyer. Enjoyable, but I am already asleep by the time the eponymous Jeff reaches Stansted en route to Venice. At this reading rate, I'll get to Varanasi before Jeff. Heathrow Terminal 4 is in festive swing (it's October!), with stars and Christmas trees already decking the departure halls.

14.15 flight QR12 to Doha with Qatar Airways. It's a smart 777 plane with the most legroom I've ever had in cattle class; tasty food, too (beef, chicken or veg., inevitably). Qatar Airways boast they have been "voted top Middle Eastern airline six years running." I haven't a clue where Doha is, or Qatar for that matter. My fellow passengers are a cross-section of the world's population, mostly of short stature and brownish faces (so I don't feel out of place), perhaps reflecting their onward destinations. And most are in transit. Probably not many go to Doha for the sun, sand, etc.  On-board announcements, in English and Qatari Arabic, are delivered at break-neck speed, more like gargling or blowing bubbles in the bath than recognisable verbal communication. Changing flights at Doha involves a long bus ride almost to the city centre for the smart new departure terminals, then onto another 777, another "prepared in accordance with Muslim principles" dinner (go for the chicken this time - I don't fancy spicy beef at 1 am UK time), and eventually a glimpse of the blood-red sun rising over Afghanistan. It looks peaceful and beautiful from up here.

Arrive Delhi 08.30, 30 minutes late, the captain's attempts at making up time having been thwarted by airport departure congestion. The real splendours of Indira Gandhi Airport are not representative of general Indian mayhem.

Check through quickly, visit the duty free, reclaim baggage, check my mobile SIM is still valid (it is, until 2020), then take the super-fast new expresslink metro to New Delhi station, just a short jog in a cycle rickshaw to the Hotel Surya Plaza (in the well-known backpackerland known as Paharganj). They are expecting me - "Passport, please..." Passport? Where is my passport? It's gone! The Surya Plaza is not up to much - like others I've stayed in, the foyer promises levels of sophistication that fade immediately beyond the desk, from where it is basic and a bit grubby. But the staff are wonderful - concerned, solicitous, informed. A travel agent who knows the ropes is summoned from nearby; he finds the 'phone number of the British High Commission (for a replacement passport at £100+) and explains the procedure re. police reports, etc. He offers (for an immodest £10) a car and driver to go back to the aiport in case it has been found, and so we head back through the smog and traffic jams, park in a multi-storey and try to explain my plight to the armed soldiers who guard every entrance of fortress IGA. Their purpose, of course, is to keep out anyone who cannot show a passport, which makes it a little difficult. The persuasive charms and persistence of my driver does the trick and eventually we are ushered through to "Lost and Found". And found it has indeed been. Phew! Within a couple of hours I'm back at the hotel entertaining myslef by practising with the loo's waterjet thingy. Sanity restored. Put in a call to Sara then drop off to sleep. It's been a long day, so far.

Head out again at 5, hoping to see a little of the streets before dark. It's a pretty buzzy area with lots of little shops and stalls, narrow alleys jammed with rickshaws (cycle and auto), beeping motobikes and occasional cars, where they fit. There are few "good" hotels round here, and Surya Plaza may be one of the less adequate, but it has shown its colours in other ways (and I have paid in advance - almost £20 a night! - so it's a bit late to jump ship). At least my room is spacious with double and single beds, has en suite (including water jet "thingy" in the loo), a TV and fridge that works, and, best of all, a balcony overlooking one of the less noisy alleys. That's where I'm writing this, sitting on a low table (they couldn't find me a chair to sit on). There are pack horses tethered just outside the doorway; I saw them earlier transporting huge rolled-up plastic packs like round hay bales. Some of the less-basic hotels on the other side have rooftop restaurants. I have been instead for a spiritual thanksgiving as well as culinary nourishment.

Worship time at the Ramakrishna Temple (next to the mainstream Hindu temple near the Sikh gurdwara near the nearest metro station) runs from 6 to 7. It's a welcoming space, like a carpeted Greek temple surrounded by little garden plots growing medicinal plants. I leave my shoes in the shoe-rack room, removing socks too for good measure (most worshippers are sock-less), enter and sqat near the back in an attempt at the lotus position. My joints protest madly, but I recall that showing the soles of the feet is insulting, and I can't otherwise hide them. More and more people come in, all ages. There are a few children too, who mostly wear an expression I've seen in churches too - boredom. Some American-looking women ostentatiously throw themselves prostrate on the carpet in front of me. A line of male devotees (priests?) now enters, some in saffron robes, others in white with their heads tightly bunched in white headscarves. One opens up the iron lattice screen to give a better view of the life-size and very real-looking statue of the Holy Ramakrishna, seated (lotus-like, of course) on a gold throne surrounded by vases and garlands of flowers. Then, oh shame, a man comes over, taps me on the shoulder and says "Excuse me sir, but that is the side for men," indicating the south side where all the men have been gathering. Only then do I notice that I'm the only person on my side not wearing a sari!

Now the music starts, a sort of growling harmonium-sound as a bass, a jingling bell, rhythmic drumming and chanting a bit like an atonal version of Gregorian chant. There are some laminated sheets available which a few people collect and join in singing. The priest brings a wide casket of belching sweet incense and wafts it around the walls of the worship hall, then returns to the sanctuary, lights containers of smoky candles, waving them above his head in front of the seated figure. It is all quite mesmerising. Instead of going straight back to the hotel, I find a small restaurant (the Khosla) "as recommended in the Rough Guide" for a tasty veggie meal washed down with mango-flavoured lassi.

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